I have Samsung UE40J5200AW and it has that screen mirroring feature. Whenever I try to use to cast from Windows 11 to this TV, the stream stops after few mins of playing.

I have no idea if Samsung doesnt allow to play full screen videos from casting devices or not. I have tried to connect both PC and TV via Ethernet and see if it will help, but its happening all the time.

Whats interesting it also happens when I cast via my lineage os phone and I checked it on different TV and had the same issue.

Whats your ways to cast videos from PC/laptop to TV?

  • cobysev@lemmy.world
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    2 months ago

    If I’m on the go, I’ll hook up my laptop to the TV with an HDMI cable, set the TV as a duplicate screen so I can close the lid on my laptop (make sure closing the lid doesn’t lock your computer or put it to sleep), then use my wireless mouse and keyboard so I can sit on the couch/bed/whatever and control it from afar.

    At home, I bought a micro PC that I keep connected to the TV via HDMI. Then I use a wireless mouse/keyboard to control it from the couch.

    The micro PC has WiFi so I can connect it to the Internet, and all devices on my home network can see each other, so I can quickly copy something from my regular PC or laptop to the micro PC if I want to view it on the TV.

    I mostly use the micro PC for my streaming services. I don’t trust my Smart TV to be connected to the Internet, so I don’t use any of its apps. But I’m old; I’m used to TVs being dumb devices. I don’t like handing over control of my apps to companies; I’d rather access them directly from a computer.

  • illi@lemm.ee
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    2 months ago

    I use a Steam Link, but that’s no longer available as hardware, only an app. I don’t have any experience with it but I read somewhere you can set up RaspberyPi to work in the same way.

    Though I have to say - while it works wirelessly, for games it is better to have wired connection.

    • cobysev@lemmy.world
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      2 months ago

      I did this with my Steam Link in the past. Interestingly enough, my new Smart TV has Steam Link as a downloadable app for it, so I don’t need my physical box anymore.

      • Diplomjodler@lemmy.world
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        2 months ago

        You can use pretty much any device that runs Android or Linux to run Steam Link. Even something like a Chromecast will do.

    • pearsaltchocolatebar@discuss.online
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      2 months ago

      Nvidia Shield and FireTV cubes are a decent replacement.

      But yeah, you’re going to have input lag with those options. It might not be noticeable with something like Civ, but for stuff like Elden Ring or other games where timing is important it can cause issues.

  • LaGG_3 [he/him, comrade/them]@hexbear.net
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    2 months ago

    I’ve used Moonlight (app) and Steam Link (both the app and discontinued physical hardware). They’re both pretty decent, but I haven’t used either in ages.

    It depends on what you’re trying to run, but both are free so you should just give it a try.

    Edit: I misread the original post as being some silly freeze-gamer question. I used to use the physical Steam Link for watching videos a long time ago, but if you’re just running video files I’d recommend something like Plex.

  • shalafi@lemmy.world
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    2 months ago

    I’d suggest figuring out the Windows casting issue. My TV is hardwired to the network, so maybe that helps.

    Here’s a script for a mode switcher. Works great using psexe to wrap it in an executable.

    Do {
        CLS
        $Mode = Read-Host "`r`n(W)ork, (P)lay, (M)ovie?"
        } until ( 'w', 'p', 'm' -contains $Mode) 
    
    if ($Mode -eq "w"){
    # Work Mode
    displayswitch.exe /extend
    # Display taskbar and restart Explorer
    $p='HKCU:SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer\StuckRects3';$v=(Get-ItemProperty -Path $p).Settings;$v[8]=2;&Set-ItemProperty -Path $p -Name Settings -Value $v;&Stop-Process -f -ProcessName explorer
        }
    
    if ($Mode -eq "p"){
    # Play Mode
    displayswitch.exe /external
    # Display taskbar and restart Explorer
    $p='HKCU:SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer\StuckRects3';$v=(Get-ItemProperty -Path $p).Settings;$v[8]=2;&Set-ItemProperty -Path $p -Name Settings -Value $v;&Stop-Process -f -ProcessName explorer
        }
    
    if ($Mode -eq "m"){
    # Movie Mode
    displayswitch.exe /internal
    #Hide taskbar and restart Explorer
    $p='HKCU:SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer\StuckRects3';$v=(Get-ItemProperty -Path $p).Settings;$v[8]=3;&Set-ItemProperty -Path $p -Name Settings -Value $v;&Stop-Process -f -ProcessName explorer
        }
    
  • Foni@lemm.ee
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    2 months ago

    Try a file app that allows you to view local network devices. If not, with a little more configuration you can find out about Kodi or Plex

  • PerogiBoi@lemmy.ca
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    2 months ago

    I use an HDMI switch to connect my computer and my chromecast to my projector since it only has one HDMI in port. Wireless comes with all sorts of possibilities for signal degradation (interference mainly, especially from wireless controllers or any smarthome stuff you may have).

  • Raiderkev@lemmy.world
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    1 month ago

    I used to have a Miracast dongle and it worked like a champ. No wifi needed and it did exactly what I wanted. I always thought it was cool, but it never really caught on. Android killed off support a few years ago. You can still use it with Windows, but I mostly use a Chromecast now for convenience.